Welcome back to a new week! We had a glorious few days off, celebrating my mom’s ‘big’ birthday, and enjoying the newfound privacy in our backyard! Thanks to enough sunny days, they completed our new horizontal fence, and we could not be more thrilled with it!
I honestly had no idea I could be this excited about a fence…but that’s because I didn’t realize how completely transforming the right fence design could be to a backyard! We grew more excited with every stage, and there was actual clapping when they were done.
I was a little worried the neighbors might think it was too untraditional (we live in the suburbs), but everyone has come by to admire it. Seriously, who knew a fence could be so exciting?!
I was at work during most of the building, but I did snap a few progress pics to give you an idea of how it was constructed. We used 1×6-inch cedar boards, with posts spaced 6-feet apart. We wanted it 8-feet tall, but our lot is sloped and I didn’t want the fence to stair-step or slope with it.
I must have missed that math lesson in school, because I have no idea how they figured all that out…but our fence is completely level across the top from one side to the other. Which means it ranges from 8 to 10 feet tall, depending on the slope of the lot.
Ilove the clean look of just a single layer of horizontal boards (spaced much closer together than these), but since privacy is a big reason for the fence, we opted for board-on-board.
We had the posts built on the outside to create a clean look in the backyard, but our neighbors on one side look out their Kitchen window directly at the back of our fence….so we had the metal posts covered with cedar also. Again, I was surprised by what a big difference this made in giving the fence a more finished look…as well as, how little extra it cost to frame the posts.
A horizontal fence takes about twice as long as a traditional vertical fence to build since each board has to be held up on either end by two people, leveled, and then nailed in place.
Once that was done, they added trim pieces to the top and on each seam, then stained it. Voila, zee fancy fence!
The stain color isn’t quite what we wanted, but we’re going to live with it for a season and see how it weathers before spraying it again. Next up is adding sun-loving plants to all the pots!
We had a shorter fence built around the pool equipment, and added a gate to create hidden storage and cut down on the noise of the pump. For both gates, I went with very simple latches and handles, and had them mounted on the horizontal, as well.
It’s crazy, but the backside is just as pretty as the front! Here are the views from the alley, and our neighbor’s yard.
The stain color on the right is what we want for the whole fence.
We haven’t changed one other thing in the backyard, but thanks to the horizontal fence, it already feels like a spa-like retreat! I can’t wait to tackle the patio area and screened porch next!
Isn’t (And me, because, well, she gave me one! #friendperk) Isn’t my new pool/beach bag the cutest?! My darling friend Fancy Ashley designed it in collaboration with Hayden Reis , and I’m so excited for her! The bag is made of sailcloth, so you could literally hose it out…and all the pockets and clips make it perfect for keeping Summer essentials organized. I love how it folds completely flat when empty, too. #packersdelight
Of course Maggie had to put her stamp of approval on the new fence. #poser
I’m ready for Summer and weekends by the pool! So tell me, what do you think of the horizontal fence?!
Catching up? See the full backyard and fence Before shots here.
Welcome back to a new week! We had a glorious few days off, celebrating my mom’s ‘big’ birthday, and enjoying the newfound privacy in our backyard! Thanks to enough sunny days, they completed our new horizontal fence, and we could not be more thrilled with it! I honestly had no idea I could be this… Read More
Project details Skill 3 out of 5 Moderate Aligning the posts requires precision, but building the panels is not complex. Cost About $375 per 10-foot run Estimated Time 12 to 16 hours
Any old fence will cordon off a space. But a handsome design built from cedar parts also boosts curb appeal, which can’t be said of even the finest chain link. And though cedar is pricey, sleeving pressure-treated 4×4 posts in 1× cedar instead of paying for solid 6×6 cedar posts cuts costs. Save even more by reserving clear cedar for prominent areas and using common cedar in places where its imperfections won’t show.
“Just be sure to call 811 to have utility lines marked before you dig,” says This Old House senior technical editor Mark Powers. Read on to see how he put this beauty together.
Download the cut list to build a wood lattice fence.
How to Build a Wood Fence Overview
Prep Day Determine the fence line and set the first post (Steps 2 and 3).
SATURDAY Build the sleeves and panels (Steps 4–6).
Build the sleeves and panels (Steps 4–6). SUNDAY Install the panels and trim, and set the remaining posts (Steps 7 and 8).
For cut list, see below or download the cut list here.
This cut list is for one 36-by-51-inch panel. Repeat for each panel, and customize the size of your panels as necessary to avoid partial panels in your run of fence. For the lattice panel stops, you can safely rip up to three from each 1×6 common cedar board. However, if you rip only two strips out of a 1×6, you’ll have enough width left over for the narrow sleeve parts. For our panels, we left 43 inches of post exposed above ground.
2×4 frame top and bottom: 2 @ 51 inches
2×4 frame side: 2 @ 33 inches
¾-inch stops: 4 @ 31½ inches (1x material ripped to ¾ inches wide to create a ¾-by-¾-inch square dowel)
¾-inch stops: 4 @ 48 inches (1x material ripped to ¾ inches wide to create a ¾-by-¾-inch square dowel)
Lattice: 1 @ 32⅞ by 47⅞ inches (to fit comfortably in a frame with internal dimensions of 33 by 48 inches)
Cap rail: 1 @ 49½ inches (Ripped to 5⅛ inches wide)
Post and sleeve
Make the visible front and back full-length sleeve pieces from clear cedar and the stops and blocks from less-expensive common cedar. To determine the number of sleeve pieces needed for each post configuration, refer to the list below.
Full-length sleeve pieces: 43 inches (Ripped to 5⅛ inches wide)
Top block sleeve pieces: 3 inches (ripped to 3⅝ inches wide)
1full-length front piece 5⅛ inches wide
1 full-length back piece 5⅛ inches wide
2 top block 3⅝ inches wide
2 bottom block 3⅝ inches wide
1 full-length front piece 5⅛ inches wide
1 full-length back piece 5⅛ inches wide
1 full-length side piece 3⅝ inches wide
1 top block 3⅝ inches wide
1 bottom block 3⅝ inches wide
1 full-length front piece 5⅛ inches wide
1 full-length side piece 4⅜ inches wide
1 top block 4⅜ inches wide
1 bottom block 4⅜ inches wide
1 top block 3⅝ inches wide
1 bottom block 3⅝ inches wide
Position the Line
To square the fence line to the house, you’ll mark off a right triangle extending from the foundation. Sink one stake for the triangle’s corner where the first post will go, and a second one 3 feet away along the foundation. Tie a mason line to the first stake, stretch it taut roughly perpendicular to the house, and mark it 4 feet from the stake. Find the 5-foot mark on a measuring tape and angle it from the second stake toward the line. Now cross the taut line and the tape until you get the 4-foot and 5-foot marks to meet. When they do, according to the Pythagorean theorem, you have a 90-degree angle at the triangle’s corner—and thus a perpendicular line intersecting the house. A bigger triangle (say 9, 12, and 15 feet) works even better.
Dig the first posthole
Typically, digging beyond the frost line and setting at least one-third of the post in tamped crushed stone and soil works fine. But anyone with very sandy soil should sink the post in concrete, like we did. Mark your hole depth on the handle of a posthole digger in painter’s tape, and dig 6 inches below the frost line and to a diameter three times the size of the post
Wrap the Post
If you’re using concrete, you’ll want to keep water from seeping between it and the wood. In that case, wrap a section of the post with self-adhesive flashing, starting near the bottom and extending above the concrete line but below ground level.
Set the Post
Pour 6 inches of drainage stone into the hole and tamp it with the post. Add or subtract stone to get your post height. Clamp two furring strips to adjacent sides to prop up the post in the hole, as shown. Tack a 1× scrap to the post’s front face to stand in for the sleeve, and make sure it touches the mason line. Using a level on two adjacent sides, adjust the supports to make the post plumb. Add a few inches of drainage stone around the post. Pour dry concrete mix into the hole up to a few inches below grade. Add water until the mix is saturated, and stir it with a piece of scrap. Check for plumb, top off the hole with soil, and allow the post to stand undisturbed while the concrete cures.
Cut the Post Sleeve Pieces
To construct the sleeves, you’ll sandwich narrow blocks on sides where fence panels connect between wider full-length pieces. Use a circular saw to rip the blocks to 3⅝ inches and the full-length pieces to 5⅛ inches. For end posts, substitute a 3⅝-inch full-length piece for the narrow blocks on the side with no connecting panel. Once ripped, cut the pieces to length using a miter saw.
Assemble the Sleeves
Apply polyurethane glue to the edges of the lower sleeve blocks, sandwich them between the front and back pieces, and use a nail gun and 1¼-inch nails to secure the assembly. Set aside the top blocks until after the panels are installed.
Tip: If the glue foams out of the seams, don’t smear it with a cloth,
or it will never come off. Just wait until it dries and shave it off with a chisel or scraper.
Install the First Sleeve
Slide the sleeve over the post with the front face parallel to the fence line, as shown. Make it flush at the top, shim it, and screw it in place.
Cut the Frame Pieces
Use a miter saw to cut the 2×4 frame pieces to length. Fit a circular saw with a fence and rip ¾-inch strips from a 1× board, as shown. You’ll use these strips as stops to hold the lattice in place. Cut the stops to length: 1½ inches shorter than the frame’s side pieces and 3 inches shorter than the top and bottom pieces.
Attach the Front Stops
Lay the frame pieces of one panel on the work surface. Place a corresponding strip on each board, centered end-to-end for the front stop. Now use a scrap piece of the strip material to recess the stops 3⁄4 inch from the front edge of each board. Tack them in place using a nail gun and 1¼-inch nails, and screw them to the board using a drill/driver and 1⅝-inch screws.
Drill Weep Holes
Using a drill/driver fitted with a ⅜-inch paddle bit, drill four weep holes along the centerline of the bottom frame piece to drain water. Repeat to create the pieces for the remaining frames.
Cut the Lattice
Lattice shows staples on the back, so first decide how you want to orient the outward-facing strips—horizontally or vertically. Then, mark the panel width and height on the lattice. Making panels 48 inches or less will allow you to get two out of each 4-by-8-foot sheet. Cut the lattice to size with a circular saw.
Assemble the Frame
Position the frame pieces front-edge down on the work surface, and butt the side boards between the top and bottom boards. The ends of the stops attached to the top and bottom boards should create a tight joint with the stops attached to the side boards, as shown.
Install the Lattice
Lay the lattice into the frame against the front stops, finish face down. Screw back stops to the top and bottom frame pieces to lock in the lattice; save the side stops for Step 17.
Set the Post Spacing
Butt a panel against the first post, resting it on the lower sleeve block at one end and scrap blocks at the other. Using the posthole digger, mark the location of the next post slightly underneath the end of the panel. Remove the panel and dig the hole.
Position the Second Post
Create your stone drainage bed and set the post height. Slide the sleeve onto the post, shim it, and tack it in place. Sandwich the panel between the posts, and position the loose post so that the panel sits level when resting on the lower sleeve blocks. Keep the scrap blocks in place to steady the panel as you make adjustments. Add drainage stone around the post.
Attach the Panel
Drive 3-inch screws through the back side of the frame and into the posts (top, center, bottom) to secure the parts, as shown. Then install your side stops. Clamp furring strips to adjacent sides of the unset post, as in Step 5, and position it plumb and with the sleeve face touching the mason line. Fill the hole with concrete, mix in the water, and let it set, usually about 45 minutes. Repeat Steps 15-17 to set the remaining posts and attach the remaining panels. Go back and secure the upper sleeve blocks above the panels.
Attach the Cap Rail
Rip the boards to 5⅛ inches wide. Hold each board beside the posts and scribe it to length. Cut the boards to length and place them on top of the panel, edges flush with the sleeves. If the board is cupped, be sure to put that side down. Secure the boards with polyurethane construction adhesive.
Secure the Post Caps
Apply the same construction adhesive to the post tops, and set the caps in place. Or you can nail through the caps and into the posts.
Tip: Make your own post caps from two square blocks, one smaller than the other, glued and nailed atop the post.
A cedar fence featuring square lattice and chunky posts creates a decorative yard accent that’ll stand up to any climate—and plenty of neighborly ogling
As you may know or may not know, Dax, our puppy labradoodle, enjoys chewing on the dog flaps to the doggy door, the outdoor grill, and pretty much anything that makes its way into our backyard. (RIP) We noticed that Dax loves to look outside our windows in our home and he relaxes when he is on the balcony “people watching”. My husband had a great idea and many of my friends also suggested that we put windows in the fence so Dax could look outside and see what is going on out beyond his small backyard.
The hubby got to work and I am very impressed by the end result. It’s been a week since the windows were installed and the dog flaps have stayed put. I hope this will help reduce his boredom and chewing spree. I have to give all my kudos to my wonderful husband for coming up with the idea and making it happen. Please note that we did not put windows in the fence that we shared with our neighbor. I don’t think she would have liked that idea.
Here is how you can make your own window for your pet:
• 1 or 2 – 8’ 1”x2” studs for framing inside of fence window
• 1 or 2 – 8’ 2” trim for framing outside of fence window (choose whichever trim you like)
•1 sheet of hail screen or diamond screen with plastic sheathing (helps keep enthusiastic dogs from cutting their nose on screen)
• 1 box of finishing nails
• 1 box of #8 1¼ wood screws
• 1/8” and ¼” drill bits for pilot holes
• pair dikes (wire cutters)
• jig saw or circular saw
• Cordless drill
• small staple gun with ½” long staples
• tape measure and pencil
1. Figure out what size window you want and how high up from the ground (depends on the size of dog). For our Labradoodle, the window is about 2’ above the ground and about 12”x11” in size.
2. Mark fence slats on inside of fence on top and bottom of where you will cut
3. Put one screw in each slats middle and lower runner board where you will cut out the window (will strengthen slats for cutting)
4. Drill pilot holes in 1st slat of the one you will be cutting (gives room to insert jig saw blade for cutting). Not needed if using circular saw.
5. Cut slats to make window (I cut 3 slats which makes for about 12” across)
6. Measure window adding 1” to all sides
7. Cut screen to above measurements using wire cutters
8. Staple screen to inside of window leaving 1” overlay on all sides
9. Measure and cut 1”x2” studs to frame inside of window covering screen overlay
10. If you have a helper, have them hold the stud on the inside of the fence while you go to the outside (they can use a hammer or another piece of wood to keep it steady). If you don’t have a helper drill a couple of pilot holes from the inside out and insert a couple of screws in each stud to secure them to the slats.
11. On the outside of the fence, drill a 1/8” pilot hole through each slat into the stud and then insert screws (Do this for all 4 studs)
12. Now measure and cut trim to frame outside of window. If you chose tapered trim, you will want to cut it at 45 degree angles. But if it is uniform trim, you can cut at 90 degree angles if you wish.
13. Use finishing nails to secure trim to outside of fence framing window
14. Stain wood inside and out to match fence and you are done!
Good luck and let me know how it turns out! Your dog will love the new windows and you will love the reduction of chewed up items in your backyard.
As you may know or may not know, Dax, our puppy labradoodle, enjoys chewing on the dog flaps to the doggy door, the outdoor grill, and pretty much anything that makes its way into our backyard.
Wood is a fantastic material: flexible and beautiful, durable and renewable. Ever since IKEA started, we’ve used wood as a raw material. We’re a global company and have a great responsibility to ensure that our production has a positive effect on people and the environment throughout the world. That’s why our goal for 2020 is that all wood which we use is to come from more sustainable sources. With the ÄPPLARÖ series, we’ve already achieved this goal – by finding various new wood species to work with. Read More
Today we’ve achieved the goal that all the wood which we use for our outdoor furniture comes from more sustainable sources, which means that it is certified or recycled wood. The transition has been a given for us at IKEA, but it has also been a challenge. Much of the wood used for our outdoor furniture comes from Southeast Asia, where it has been difficult to gain a good insight into the entire process from forest and sawmills to the factory. But through close cooperation with suppliers and local authorities, we’ve achieved the result, says Ulf Johansson, who works with wood supply and forestry. “More sustainable forestry requires perseverance and long-term thinking, since profits are not achieved quickly, and many of our growers are small companies with limited resources. But we have been able to support them in this process both financially and in terms of knowledge-sharing”, says Ulf.
Tough demands on life outdoors
Outdoor furniture must be durable, and throughout history, teak, which is a very hard wood, has been a popular choice of material. But the availability of teak produced in a more sustainable way is far too small, so to achieve our goal, we started looking for alternative wood types. Ove Lindén is an engineer and was working for IKEA in Malaysia when he discovered acacia’s positive qualities in the early 2000s. “At the time it was not used for furniture, but was grown mainly for the paper industry. But when we saw people also made fence posts from acacia, we supposed it was resistant to rotting and durable ‒ and would also suit outdoor furniture. In addition, it has a beautiful color tone, just like teak”, says Ove, and explains how acacia, which grows mainly in Malaysia and Vietnam, is grown on plantations where IKEA can have a good overview of the entire necessary production chain.
Atype of wood to trust
Today, we use acacia for, among other things, ÄPPLARÖ, one of our most long-living outdoor furniture series. Over the years, new items have been added, and today ÄPPLARÖ is found in outdoor environments throughout the world. Ove Lindén has a theory of why it has become so long-lived. “It’s a timeless and neutral series that suits many surroundings. In addition, over the years we’ve been able to streamline production and thereby keep the price down.” The discovery of acacia has made us curious about finding more wood species from sustainable forestry. The journey continues towards higher quality and increased durability ‒ for you who use the furniture, yet also for people and the environment throughout the world where our furniture is manufactured.
IKEA offers everything from living room furniture to mattresses and bedroom furniture so that you can design your life at home. Check out our furniture and home furnishings!
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Ready to update your landscaping and looking for some privacy fence ideas on a budget? Create a stunning backdrop for your yard with this DIY Horizontal Slat Fence. It’s a simple backyard makeover for under $100 for each 8′ tall DIY privacy fence panel!
[su_note note_color=”#ffffff”]This is a sponsored post in partnership with one of our favorite brands, Lowe’s Home Improvement. All thoughts and opinions are always 100% our own.[/su_note]
One of the things that really made me fall in love with our home was the backyard view! You can hear me wax on about it and how much we were excited to makeover the outdoor living space in our very first episode of House of Home.
What is truly great about an outdoor space is that it really opens up your home. It’s an extension of your living square footage, especially when the weather cooperates… and goodness, we were ready for some cooperation and the tropical storm to let up a bit!
Thankfully, during the dry moments between the bouts of rain, we were able to take on a new project that has been on our minds, and our ever growing home makeover to-do list for a while. In fact, when Lowe’s asked us to take on a weekend warrior project for the yard, we knew EXACTLY what project we wanted to tackle. As one big piece to our backyard makeover, this horizontal slat fence DIY totally delivers in both style and function!
When thinking about home renovation projects, our first thought is usually to put time into the inside of our home. The main living areas, like the living room and kitchen, are typically where we spend most of our time, so naturally, we put effort into making them over first. I have to say though, once you begin really looking at your yard as an extension of your living space and treating it as such, it creates a much larger footprint for your family to enjoy. And our entire family is loving the outdoor oasis we’ve created with our backyard makeover.
Now, when I look out of our large windows (that initially made me fall in love with our home) and take in the view, I still get those towering trees and sights of the natural preserve behind us. However, with our new horizontal slat fence DIY project, I’m not taking in the view of our neighbor’s house or backyard anymore – solely our own backyard sanctuary.
At just under $100 in materials per section, this is a cost-effective way to create a really grand privacy fence that can truly become a statement piece in your yard.
Keep reading for our full step by step of the DIY process…
HOW TO MAKE A STUNNING HORIZONTAL SLAT FENCE
MATERIALS NEEDED TO BUILD A HORIZONTAL SLAT FENCE
For one 8′ section of Horizontal Slat Fence:
(16) 1″x6″x8′ pressure treated common boards
(1) 2″x6″x8′ pressure treated common board
(2) 4″x4″x8′ pressure treated common posts
1/2″x6″ lag screws
1 5/8″ deck screws
Thompson’s Water Seal stain and sealer
Note: We are using pressure treated wood for outdoor use.
I loved not having to go in the store to find and select all the wood and necessary supplies. It was quick and easy with online order pickup! You can make an online order from the comfort of your own home so you can save time and just pick up the supplies.
TOOLS NEEDED TO BUILD A LANDSCAPE PRIVACY FENCE
Post-hole digger/shovel (optional, see below)
INSTRUCTIONS FOR YOUR HORIZONTAL SLAT PRIVACY FENCE
Set the posts.
If you have existing fence posts you can utilize these posts and attach new 8-foot 4×4 posts to it for a quicker project.
Hold the 8-foot 4×4 post in place next to the existing fence post and using a drill with a 1/4″ wood bit, pilot a hole for each lag screw, two lag screws in each new post. (This is what we did.)
If you are beginning a completely new project you will need to set the posts in the ground at least 12” deep (which will make the final fence shorter than ours). Use a post-hole digger to make a hole 8 inches wide and just over 2-feet deep. Pour about 4 inches of gravel for the base, and then insert the 8-foot 4×4 post into the hole. Then pour fast-drying concrete mix into the hole surrounding the post. Use a three-way level to make sure the post is standing straight. Tamp down the dry concrete. This draws natural moisture from the ground to harden or “set” the packed concrete around the post.
For this option, you will need to let the posts set overnight.
Install the slats.
Once posts are set, begin attaching the 1″ x 6″ x 8’ planks beginning at the top of the fence, to make sure it stays flush. You might want to consider using a level to make sure each slat is installed level. Evenly spacing the slats as you go, and alternating sides, attach them to the post using a nail gun
Note: you may want to get at least one person to help hold it level while the other person nails into place.
After horizontal slats are hung, go back and place two brown deck screws (to match board color better) to secure to each post.
To give the wall a more finished look, add a cap. Secure 2″ x 6″ x 8’ boards to the top of the fence by screwing into the top of the posts.
Once all boards are secure, break out the drop cloth and begin using a paintbrush to stain the new fence. We stained in place although in hindsight, we suggest staining boards before you install them as it wasn’t easy to reach through the slats to cover it evenly and completely. While your posts set, stain all of the wood and you’ll save time.
Note: staining the wood with an outdoor stain and sealer not only enhances the color but also seals the wood from moisture and rain.
PRIVACY FENCE LANDSCAPING FINISHING TOUCHES
For a finishing touch at the base of the fence, consider adding mulch or stone. We like the white contrasted with wood grain and went with white marble chips.
Add an extra pop of life and color with planters. You can either direct mount with screws or hang per instructions, fill with topsoil and flowers and plants. I have a tutorial for thriving window box planters and the tips apply to these hanging planters as well!
Top it all off with a string of lights and hang them as you choose. Most come with a ready-hang screw hole to easily attach to the wood.
All in all, we took close about 8-10 hours to make this project happen, of course, we enlisted the help of our kids and we all pitched in to get it done fairly quickly. You can opt to put in one full day and get-r-done or split up some of the work each day for a transformational backyard weekend warrior project!
So what do you think? Do you have any summer outdoor projects on your to-do list? I’d love to hear!
Continue to Content DIY Horizontal Slat Fence | House to Home Yield: 1 – 8′ section Print Materials (16) 1″x6″x8′ pressure treated common boards
(1) 2″x6″x8′ pressure treated common board
(2) 4″x4″x8′ pressure treated common posts
1/2″x6″ lag screws
1 5/8″ deck screws
Thompson’s Water Seal stain and sealer
Paint Brushes Tools Drill
Post-hole digger/shovel (optional) Instructions Set the posts. If you have existing fence posts you can utilize these posts and attach new 8-foot 4×4 posts to it for a quicker project. Hold the 8-foot 4×4 post in place next to the existing fence post and using a drill with a 1/4″ wood bit, pilot a hole for each lag screw, two lag screws in each new post. (This is what we did.) If you are beginning a completely new project you will need to set the posts in the ground at least 12” deep (which will make the final fence shorter than ours). Use a post-hole digger to make a hole 8 inches wide and just over 2-feet deep. Pour about 4 inches of gravel for the base, and then insert the 8-foot 4×4 post into the hole. Then pour fast-drying concrete mix into the hole surrounding the post. Use a three-way level to make sure the post is standing straight. Tamp down the dry concrete. This draws natural moisture from the ground to harden or “set” the packed concrete around the post. For this option, you will need to let the posts set overnight. Install the slats. Once posts are set, begin attaching the 1″ x 6″ x 8’ planks beginning at the top of the fence, to make sure it stays flush. You might want to consider using a level to make sure each slat is installed level. Evenly spacing the slats as you go, and alternating sides, attach them to the post using a nail gun. After horizontal slats are hung, go back and place two brown deck screws (to match board color better) to secure to each post. Finishing touches. To give the wall a more finished look, add a cap. Secure 2″ x 6″ x 8’ boards to the top of the fence by screwing into the top of the posts. Once all boards are secure, break out the drop cloth and begin using a paintbrush to stain the new fence. We stained in place although in hindsight, we suggest staining boards before you install them as it wasn’t easy to reach through the slats to cover it evenly and completely. While your posts set, stain all of the wood and you’ll save time. Recommended Products As an Amazon Associate and member of other affiliate programs, I earn from qualifying purchases. Thompson’s Waterseal Waterproffing Stain – Semi Transparent, Acorn Brown, 1 gallon
Box Level, Tacklife MT-L02 24-Inch
DEWALT 20V MAX Cordless Drill Combo Kit, 2-Tool
DEWALT Brad Nailer Kit
DEWALT 20V MAX Impact Driver Kit Did you make this project? Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Instagram
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Popular Florida lifestyle blogger shares step by step guide to build a DIY Horizontal Slat Fence. Click for all the info on DIY privacy fence panels
DIY Horizontal Privacy Fence – A Cedar Fence Extension Project
Privacy fences are a great way to make your backyard feel like a privae oasis. We recently completed our DIY horizontal privacy fence, extending our 6′ cedar fence to 8′ in height. Over the years we have tried to create a private backyard with privacy trees and landscaping, but no matter what we have tried it just hasn’t been enough to give us privacy from our neighbors. Our fence is very close to our house, on the side that we spend the most time entertaining – our dining area and deck. Both clearly overlook our neighbors yard, into their home, and through their old collapsed fence and into a parking lot. It was because of this that we finally decided to build a DIY horizontal privacy fence that would attach to our existing 6′ cedar fence, and extend the overall height of the fence to 8′ tall and give us the privacy that we needed.
DIY Project Notes and Tips
For this DIY horizontal privacy fence tutorial, the materials will be listed per panel. Note that when you connect your panels you will need one less 4×4″ post for each additional panel since the panels connect. Each panel cost approximately $100 to complete. 1 box of each kind of screws was enough for us to complete 5 panels. We used all pressure treated wood, and cedar fence planks. We used 1″ thick planks from Dunn Lumber which were more costly but had a better appearance and sturdier form than the 5/8″ planks available at Lowes and Home Depot. The pressure treated wood we selected was non-incised (does not have the riveted look) and was purchased from Home Depot. Pressure treated wood may be labeled outdoor wood or some other weatherproofing label. We attached the 4×4″ by 8′ long fence posts to our existing 6′ long fence posts. If you need to do this project by installing new fence posts, substitute for 10′ long posts instead and properly place them in ground. You won’t need the lag bolts for this method since you are not securing the new posts to the old posts.
1 box of 1 1/4″ Deckmate decking screws
1 box 3″ Deckmate decking screws
3/8″ x 6″ galvanized lag bolts (2-3 per post)
2 – 4×4″ by 8′ long pressure treated/outdoor wood, non-incised
1 – 2×6″ by 8′ long pressure treated/outdoor wood, non-incised
1 – 2×2″ by 8′ long pressure treated/outdoor wood, non-incised
6– 1×6″ by 8′ long cedar fence planks
18 volt drill/driver combo
11/32″ drill bit
T-25 bit (included in the box of decking screws)
Optional: Laser level
Step 1 – Install Fence Posts
For our privacy fence we installed new 4×4″ by 8′ long fence posts directly into our existing fence posts using lag bolts. We put 3 lag bolts in per post. The exception was the one fence post that we had to install directly to the fence and not to an existing post because of spacing (see below) where we only used 2 lag bolts.
We installed all posts with 34″ distance above our fence line to ensure we would have enough height to maintain a level top line of cedar boards. Our fence sags in one area, so we wanted to make sure the privacy fence was level despite the fence inconsistencies. This meant that some posts did not touch the ground, but maybe had 1-2″ space in order to maintain the level height we wanted.
Pre-drill your holes and then screw in the lag bolts. We used a clamp to hold the post in place while we completed this step.
Step 2 – Attach Horizontal Cedar Fence Boards
First you will need to establish a level line to begin your horizontal cedar plank installation. We used a laser level that we attached to the house temporarily. Having a laser line run down the fence line allowed us to make sure our guide board remained level throughout. We marked each post where the level line landed and installed the guide board on each section so that they always rested on the laser guide line, and then used an actual level to be sure that it was level from post to post when we installed it.
The first set of planks we installed top down to establish the height. Each section after that we worked bottom up, making sure our cedar boards aligned with each other as we went, lining up with the laser level marks on the guide line. We spaced the boards 1/8″ apart, eyeing it as we went. Alternatively, you could use spacers or measure with a tape measure. Its important to note that cedar fence boards are imperfect, so sometimes we had to move them slightly before screwing them in to make sure we had a visible gap. Its a fence so it will not be perfect. It is not noticeable when finished if lines are not perfectly spaced as long as they line up and are level.
Some of our fence posts were exactly 8′ apart, so not cutting was necessary, however other segments were slightly smaller so we cut our cedar boards down to the correct length before installing. There was a segment that was slightly longer than 8′ so we installed our fence post directly to the fence and not on the existing 4×4″ post so that our 8′ cedar boards would work.
The cedar boards were installed center on the 4×4″ posts throughout the fence. We used clamps to hold the planks in place while we screwed them in.
Step 3 – Trim the Top and Bottom of Fence
Once all of your fence segments are complete, the final step is to trim the top and the bottom of your horizontal privacy fence extension to give it a finished look.
Cut boards down if needed for any segments less than 8′ and prepare to install. Cut the top of any posts off that are too tall.
For the top trim, use the 2×6″ wood along the length of your fence. We lined the wood up with the new 4×4″ post, giving a 2″ overhang towards our side of the fence. Install them with the 3″ decking screws.
For the bottom trim, use the 2×2″ wood. Install just below your bottom cedar boards along the length of the fence. Pre-dill holes to avoid splitting the wood. Use the 3″ decking screws.
All lines should match up with the cedar planks, center on the 4×4″ posts.
Before and After Photos
Here are some photos that show the before of what we were looking at before installing our DIY horizontal privacy fence extension, and after!
The next step in this project is staining the fence. You can read more on what stain colors we considered where I share a side by side comparison of 6 popular neutral grey and brown Behr stain colors applied to raw cedar. And you can find out what color we finally decided on for our fence!
How to build a horizontal privacy fence extension attached to an existing cedar fence. This easy step-by-step tutorial shares how to extend your fence height.
How to Make a Diamond Pattern Espalier: Creating a Belgian Fence
Have you ever wanted to grow vines along a fence or wall in that pretty diamond pattern espalier? That’s called a Belgian fence, and we recently did just that! In this post I’m sharing the step-by-step plans as well as all the details you need to create one, too!
This is a post that I’ve been dying to share with you guys ~ and one that’s been over a year in the making! It all started when I wanted to grow some vines in a diamond pattern on a blank wall in our front yard. I’m sure you’ve seen them. They’re a form of espalier, which simply means to grow vines flat against a wall. And in this case, they’re done in a diamond pattern.
They’re elegant and very European looking. And I thought they’d be the perfect thing to fill the empty wall we have on the front of our house. However, when I started to look online for instructions on how to do it, it was actually hard to find them!
Because this involves math. Yes, math! You can’t just guess where to put the wires. You need it to be symmetrical, and you need math in order to figure out how many diamonds you’ll be making. Which leads to how much wire you need, which then leads to how many plants you’ll be buying. You get the picture.
As you can see, we have a weird asymmetrical wall in the front of our house that was completely blank! It’s asymmetrical in the fact that it doesn’t exist on the other side of the garage. There’s just one, to the right of the garage. Other people who have our same house have planted larger shrubs there (trying to cover it up!), and I’ve even seen decor hanging there (not my favorite look). But once I got it into my head that I wanted this diamond pattern espalier, there was no changing my mind!
And this espalier thing? It originated in France. Of course it did! Apparently everything I love is French! 😉
So a Belgian fence is just an espalier that is done in a diamond, or criss cross pattern. And it’s actually relatively easy to recreate in your own garden. It’s the perfect way to add vertical visual interest, and in case you have a big blank wall, disguise that, too!
Supplies You’ll Need
200 ft 16 gauge galvanized wire
Needle nose pliers with wire cutter
Cordless screw gun
Set of masonry drill bits (if you’re doing this on a fence, you can just get wood drill bits)
1 tube of clear 100% silicone caulk (you only need this if you’re doing it on a wall, not a fence)
(3) creeping fig plants
Picking a Vine
As far as picking a plant, there are tons of climbing vines that will work. I chose Creeping Fig because we love it, have it in the backyard (it’s covering all our fences) and it’s a super fast grower. I’m not patient and in this kind of situation, I didn’t want to have to wait years for it to fill in. It’s also basically maintenance free after the first year.
If you want something that will bloom, trumpet vine, jasmine, or bougainvillea can all work.
How to Install Your Diamond Pattern Espalier
1. Measure your wall or fence space you want to cover. This will determine how many diamonds you’re making and how many plants you’ll need. Typically, a Belgian fence pattern has vines planted 2 feet apart, but you can adjust that slightly if you need to. Ours are planted 28″ apart because of the size of the wall. Adjust so that you’re as close to 2 feet apart as is possible with the distance you’re covering.
2. Plan out the measurements on paper with a grid to determine spacing and anchor points like we did below.
3. Chalk the same grid you have on paper onto the wall. We used a chalk reel to do this and it made it so much easier to implement! This also is a time to tweak what it looks like and make sure you like it.
Mark your diamond bottoms (where the vines will be planted).
4. Drill pilot holes at each of the points. We used 2 screws per anchor point to run 2 strands of wire. Two strands just makes it easier to weave your vines in and around it – and it’s more secure. But you could definitely use just a single wire.
5. Fill hole with silicone caulk just before setting the screw to protect against water getting into the wall. If you’re doing this on a fence, you can skip this step.
6. Leave about 1/4” of each screw exposed for wrapping wire around it. Run wire taut to each anchor point creating the diamond pattern, wrapping the wire around each screw to secure.
7. Plant one vine at the bottom point of each diamond (for us that was 3), separating and pulling out some of the vines and weaving them onto the wire to guide the growth. I like to give them a head start 😉
8. Add soil amendment and water thoroughly.
9. For the first season, water once a week, more frequently if it gets really warm. Once established, Creeping Figs don’t need any additional watering and can survive on rain water alone (even here in sunny Southern California!)
10. As the plant grows, continue to weave it up the wires to fill in the diamond pattern. Trim any shoots or tuck them in so they grow into the pattern.
I love how it turned out!
Our house is still a terrible 1970’s architectural mess. And the wall is still asymmetrical. But the Belgian fence is so pretty that it distracts from all that. Or at least I like to think so! I’m so in love with it, in fact, that I’ve been looking for other places to add it ever since!
This is absolutely one of my favorite projects we’ve done! I love the charm and interest it adds to the front of the house, and I can’t think of another project that literally took so little effort for so much results!
Depending on your climate, it usually takes one to two growing seasons to see it fully grown in. For us, it has been about a year and a half since we planted them and they are completely filled in!
And there you have it! A Belgian fence diamond pattern espalier that wasn’t hard to install and gives you a lot of bang for your buck – and time! I hope if you’ve ever thought about doing it that this gives you the confidence to try it!
*affiliate links included for your convenience*
And I’d love to know if any of you try it. If so, be sure to send me a note or leave a comment here!
PIN THIS FOR LATER!!
If you enjoyed this post, you may want to check out some of my other outdoor and landscaping posts below:
Have you ever wanted to grow vines along a fence in a diamond pattern espalier? That’s a Belgian fence, and I’m sharing all the steps you need to make one!
Do’s and Don’ts for Choosing the Right Fence Colour
Your fence has a big impact on your curb appeal. You may be wondering which is the right fence colour? There are many considerations for choosing the right fence colour.
And, because your fence will act as a backdrop for your private yard space, you want it to complement your home and landscaping perfectly.
Of course, just as with any colour decision, you need to consider what’s happening on the rest of your home before you make a decision. Let’s look at some examples of fence options and my do’s and don’ts for choosing the right fence colour.
Image via Zillow (Psst. I love this image. There is no fence, just beauty)
Whenever I research a post I’m writing to see what other people are saying, I always cringe when I see declarations like this from articles giving colour advice to the consumer:
“When it comes to picking out the right paint and stain for your fence, it all depends on what you want!” or this statement, which is no better: “To help you decide which colors complement each other, try looking at a color wheel to see which colors look more balanced.”
If you’ve been reading my blog for any length of time, you’ve already guessed that this kind of advice is useless and helps no one. This is also the reason why I spend approximately 5 minutes on colour theory in my Specify Colour with Confidence courses.
Because having a thorough understanding of the colour wheel does not give you the proper tools and knowledge to choose colours for hard finishes, fabrics or paint for your house or your clients home. The end.
CLICK HERE to have me select the perfect fence colour for your home.
I have NEVER and I mean NEVER consulted a PRIMARY colour wheel to choose a paint colour, countertop, or fill-in-the-blank-here. My neutral colour wheel shows you where the neutrals fall inside the conventional colour wheel, along with guidelines for coordinating them, which is way more useful.
Choosing the Right Fence Colour
Okay, there are many factors to consider when choosing a fence colour and this post cannot possibly cover all of them. However, here are some do’s and don’ts to consider:
DO your homework BEFORE you stain or paint your fence.
Did you know… A transparent stain (without any colour) will last maybe two years. A semi-transparent stain lasts 2-3 years.
And then when you don’t maintain that and your fence gets discoloured, you might get a solid stain which lasts 5 years if it’s an alkyd (oil based) and 3 years if it’s a latex.
Then, when that is also not long enough, you’ll eventually paint (this also goes for stained beams on the exterior of your house too, by the way).
My mom went out and unknowingly (and with obvious bad advice from the paint store) ended up with a ‘solid stain’ to paint her brand new deck for the first time. Within two years it has chipped badly and looks terrible. If she had simply stained her deck with a semi-transparent stain, it would have faded instead of chipping (NOTE: obviously the wear on a deck where people are walking is much higher than it would be on a fence).
Now she is considering installing PVC decking because you can’t go back to transparent stain if you have used a solid stain, that is, unless you strip the entire deck. And, because you can’t change the colour of PVC, it’s really important to get the colour right the first time.
Read More: 7 Exterior Lessons from Cape Cod Architecture
A lot of people choose to leave their fence ‘unstained’ for this reason. Because if you don’t maintain the stain, it starts to fade (which is fine) but then the bare wood weathers to a green grey (pictured below) and then you’ll have orange bits in other places–which is not so attractive.
Therefore, if you don’t plan to meticulously maintain your stained backyard fence, let it weather and it will turn a green grey or taupe shade like this:
This is my backyard fence with espalier apple trees growing along the fence. It would be really hard to maintain this every two years if I stained it.
DO consider coordinating your fence with the light trim colour on your exterior.
My white garden gate and vinyl decorative fencing match the white trim on my house.
You can see the backyard fence I was just showing you behind the gate (above).
My house with white trim
Join my exterior masterclass here and learn more via my fence colour module.
The fence on this house also relates to the trim colour nicely.
DON’T just paint your fence the current, trendy neutral if it does not relate to your exterior.
This house has a pretty contemporary fence on one side, stained brown probably because of the tuscan brown trend. However, it actually DOES NOT RELATE to their white house with the black roof, at all.
However, the outdoor furniture does seem to relate, and the orange gravel stone kinda relates to the fence on the other side of their backyard (below) – which I think is a better fence colour choice for this house.
Image from Zillow
Here again (below), the fence is weathered and appears to be unstained. I like how it relates to the hardwood inside the house as well.
So, if you have large patio doors or windows like this, consider what colour your floors are inside your house before choosing a fence colour so it relates as well.
DO choose a fence colour that relates to your house.
If you are going to paint or stain your fence (and not leave it to weather, like I did) then this advice seems pretty obvious. 😉 In other words, repeat a colour that already exists in your exterior.
This cream house looks great with the coordinating cream fence to match.
On this pretty home, the trellis is painted the house colour and the gate is painted the same colour as the doorway.
Better, Homes & Gardens
And this home, where the fence and shutter colour are the same.
DON’T just stain your fence an orange colour (to look like cedar) if it doesn’t work with your house!
I see this a lot. It’s meant to look like “natural” cedar, but does it ever really?
Most often you just end up with a strong orange fence that doesn’t relate to anything.
In the photo below, you can see that the deck has weathered to a green grey and the fence has been freshly stained. Probably leaving it the weathered grey would have been better since it in no way relates to the blue and white house.
image via Zillow
DO invest in a landscaping design plan!
And just because I’m totally biased, I recommend my Garden Designer MaryAnne White. She lives in New York and we did it all of my garden planning long distance 5 years ago.
Don’t go cheap on the design plan! It’s the least expensive piece of any garden. All the materials and labour are what adds up fast!
So, if your fence already looks a little too orange (like the photos above), you can still make it beautiful with garden beds in front of it.
Or, this is a beautiful combination with hostas, if you have a shady backyard.
Again, if you have to choose, spend your money on landscaping. A lot of people spend way too much money on stone and other unnecessary design elements to make their exterior look more interesting.
Landscaping is what gives the exterior of your home a look and a feel. It’s just like when you add lamps and accessories inside your home, that’s when it really feels like home and a place where you want to hang out!
DO go for an elegant solution, like continuing your fence with the same surface material as your exterior.
You can see the fence on the middle left of this photo. It’s gorgeous because matches the house.
Spanish style homes also look lovely with a fence that matches the material on the house.
DO consider planting a green hedge. This way you don’t have to maintain a fence!
I just had two fence posts replaced along the side of my backyard and it cost $850 for the materials and labour.
However, opposite my house in the backyard, I have 16 foot cedar hedges (see below).
I love the green wall and the way it creates privacy so much. And frankly, if this backyard had simply been a row of 8 ft fencing where I could see two of my neighbour’s houses, I don’t think I would have bought it.
My backyard hedge | Garden design by MaryAnne White
I know every climate can’t withstand cedar hedges but where you can, you can buy them up to 10 ft installed!
Home & Garden
I love the combination of painted brick and trellis hedging (below).
DON’T just paint your fence black because it’s trendy.
A black fence is not the right colour choice for every house. However, I do love how great it looks against green! Kelly green, black and white always looks amazing together! But you need to be sure it fits with your house.
The fence below belongs to a modern style home.
In this example below, the black fence shape fits the style of this home and the colour relates to the black windows and roof. Plus, it is well-landscaped and they repeated the black in their exterior furniture and accessories.
This designer look will be harder to achieve on your own. If you would like my help choosing the perfect colour for your fence, check out my eDesign service here.
Via Style at Home
The combination shown below is lovely as well. Hopefully it’s in a yard attached to a contemporary looking house that repeats the black and wood. Don’t do this if you have a traditional house with white trim.
I’m noticing a lot of orange stained wood (not in backyard fences necessarily) in interior design lately. Wood tones are warming up (remember you heard it here first)!
Over to you my lovelies, please tell me, what colour is your fence?
And then, let me know about the maintenance and whether you agree with me on just leaving it a lovely, neutral, easy-to-maintain, weathered grey… ha, ha.
The Best Permanent Colour for your Deck, Patio or Balcony
First Rule of Design; Boring now Equals Timeless Later
The Rule of More
Rules are for Amateurs, Exceptions are for Professionals; Yay or Nay?
Your fence colour has a big impact on your curb appeal. Here are my do’s and don’ts for choosing the right fence colour for your home.
DIY Potting Bench you can build using fence boards. This easy to build potting bench cost us about $40 in lumber. My sweet DIY potting bench has paid for itself ten times over in the five years since being built.
This DIY potting bench using fence boards is my second favorite build to date. My first is my Garden Cottage Studio.
I have used my potting bench for many things, an outdoor sideboard when entertaining, a photo prop for flowers, hand painted signs, and to pot up plants.
This is what it is looking like today in January…
But here it is after giving it a refresh last summer. Obviously it needs is again. I love the farmhouse cottage vibe with the galvanized buckets, tubs and watering cans.
Many have asked for plans but that is hard to create when using fence boards, they are not uniform in size so we just took a basic design and built it around the 6 cedar fence boards we bought.
We lined them up and measured across to get the measurements to cut for the framework.
DIY Potting Bench Frames & legs
With 2 x 3’s we built these two frames (you can use 2 x 4’s if you can’t find 2 x 3’s). Then added the 2 x 4 legs.
We made it a comfortable height for me to work while standing at it. We glued and screwed everything together. Nothing fancy.
Potting Bench Back
Once we had the legs attached we stood it up to add the fence boards along the back. Again using wood glue and screws.
Bracing the potting bench
A cross piece was added to the top frame. The depth was just a measurement we picked that we liked and was easy for me to reach, you can adjust to your space or desires.
For the shelf, we attached a fence board cut to fit the width of the back of the potting bench to a 2 x 3 then attached the 2 x 3 to the fence board back, we screwed it on from the back.
As you can see we also used wood glue. I mopped this up right after this photo.
We added some metal shelf brackets I had on hand. You can use any brackets you like or make your own.
The potting bench work surface is just more fence boards cut to fit and we used pine boards for the bottom shelf. We ran out of fence boards and we had the pine on hand but you can certainly use more cedar fence boards for the bottom as well.
Paint or Stain on the DIY Potting Bench
My DIY potting bench has been through many makeovers and seasons. I have painted it several times, if you prefer to keep it natural wood then use a deck oil or stain with oil.
More Fence Board Projects
DIY Window Box Planters
Back Deck Oasis/ Privacy Screen
DIY Kitchen Herb Garden
Sunflower Painting on Fence Boards
More DIY Potting Bench Posts
DIY Potting Bench Refresh for Summer
A Gorgeous Fall Potting Bench
Autumn & My DIY Potting Bench
DIY Potting Bench you can build using fence boards.This easy to build potting bench cost us about $45. Easy farmhouse cottage style on a budget.
Watch This Hanging Fence Garden Project in Action!
Painting a Fence and How to Make a Hanging Fence Garden – Thrift Diving Watch this video on YouTube
Let’s just be honest for a second: I suck at gardening.
I always marvel at how my kids have thrived because I can’t seem to keep anything alive!
My husband and I have always craved a garden, but the work and dedication to pull it off just wasn’t there.
That’s why container gardens have been so alluring.
I mean, how hard can it be? (asks the Black Thumb…cough, cough, ahem)
On the side of our house, we have this little section of land, with a dirty fence, that I decided I would paint for a pretty makeover, and then make some little cedar fence garden planters to hang on it!
This is what the area looked like before getting started.
It’s like No-Man’s Land at our house; it rarely gets any attention!
But after a couple days of dedication, it looks so fresh!
And look, ma! We have plants!
To complete this project, you’ll need:
KILZ OverArmor™ Wood and Concrete Resurfacer
Cedar (enough to make 4 planters: 4 boards @ 1″x6″x8′ and 2 boards @ 1″x4″x8′)
Exterior screws (1 – 1/4″)
Power drill with drill bits (3/8″ and 9/64″ drill bits)
Circular saw (optional)
Exterior wood glue
Nailer (or hammer and nails)
STEP 1: Get That Fence Super Clean!
I don’t know about you, but I find pressure washing to be addicting and very satisfying, yet super messy!
Fences are one of the most dramatic things to clean because over the years, they grow green and black gunk (or is it just my fence that grows that stuff??).
Before painting the fence to hold the hanging garden, it needed a good cleaning.
I pressure washed it and let it dry for 24 hours.
Isn’t it disgusting?!
You can not paint over something with that much gunk. So be sure to wash it well and let it dry.
SAFETY TIP: Be sure to wear long sleeves and eye protection when pressure washing! 🙂
After drying for 24 hours, it looked fresh and ready for paint!
STEP 2: Break Out the KILZ OverArmor™
To paint my fence, I used KILZ OverArmor™ Wood and Concrete Resurfacer paint, which you can find at Walmart.
I was curious about this paint because this was my first time using it. I always love discovering new products!
It’s a resurfacer, which means it’s made to bridge gaps in wood and concrete up to 1/4″ wide.
Our fence is in pretty good condition, but I’m sure a coat of this stuff will protect it for years to come.
The first thing I noticed is the color. It’s technically Slate Gray but has a bluish undertone, which I loved!
The second thing I noticed is that this paint is thick!
Sort of reminded me of liquid cement. Then it started to resemble what it looks like when I dip my straw in a milkshake. LOL
Since it’s a resurfacer, it has to be thick in order to fill small gaps and cracks.
Just be sure to stir it really well!
STEP 3: Get Rollin’
Unless you’re a professional with professional paint sprayering skills, KILZ OverArmor™ resurfacing paint is best applied with a roller and brush.
Thankfully, my fence isn’t too long, so it didn’t take too much time.
The most difficult part was trying to get in between the fence, to the boards on the back!
Ihad to do those with a paint brush (grrroooaann….).
STEP 4: Add Two Coats
I didn’t have enough paint to do two coats right away. I’ll actually need to get more paint to put on a second coat. One can covers 75 sq. ft. Not sure of my fence size, but I did use one whole can for one coat.
Painting a fence is Snoozeville so I turned on some music and danced away as I painted the fence! I’m sure the neighbors could hear me belting out 90’s music. 😉
I tried to work in a pattern to get it done faster.
STEP 5: Let It Dry
I ran out of time so I let it dry overnight. The next day, I got started on my cute little cedar fence garden planters!
How to Make a Cedar Fence Garden – Fence Planters
Now that I had a beautiful fence, I couldn’t wait to see how the cedar planets would look on it!
STEP 1: Cut Out Your Cedar Planter Pieces
These are the pieces you’ll need for your planters. I used 1″ x 6″ x 8′ boards.
You should be able to make 1 planter out of one 8-foot board.
STEP 2: Make Some French Cleats
French cleats are super easy to make. This was actually my first time making them. I was surprised they turned out so well!
This is how we’re going to hang the cedar boxes from the newly painted fence.
But you’ll need an 8-foot 1″ x 4″ board, and you’ll slice it off-center, down the middle, using the jigsaw at a 45-degree angle.
Cut it 23.5″ as long as the back piece of the cedar planter.
STEP 3: Drill Drainage Holes
These planters will need drainage holes.
I used a 3/8″ drill bit, making sure that I had a board underneath when drilling to prevent tear-out on the under side.
STEP 4: Stencil the Front
I wanted some cute stencils on the front, so I used my cutting machine to make stencils. I used some off-white chalked paint.
(RESOURCE: Check out this great post on How to Use Stencils: A Complete Guide).
STEP 5: Attach the French Cleat to the French
Now that the stencils are dried, it’s time to attach the French cleat to the back piece of the cedar planter.
Here’s the thing: you must drill pilot holes!
Without pilot holes, your cedar will simply crack in half.
Idrilled about 6-7 pilot holes with a 9/64″ drill bit all along the back, which worked fine.
Once the pilot holes were drilled, I could drive the 1-1/4″ exterior screws with no problem!
No cracking! 🙂
STEP 6: Glue and Nail It All Together
Finally, you can glue and nail the cedar planters together!
If you don’t have a nailer, don’t sweat it. Just glue and clamp your cedar boxes together using wood glue (make sure it’s a variety that says “Exterior” on it).
I used my nailer in addition to the glue because it’s faster.
STEP 7: Screw the Cleats to the Newly Painted Fence!
Finally, we’re getting there!
Figure out where you want your cedar planters to hang. I wanted a row up high and a row below. But my advice would be to check the sun placement first.
Use a level and then drill pilot holes (so your cedar doesn’t crack).
Secure with exterior screws.
If done correctly, your garden fence planter should hang evenly and securely!
I think I am in love with French cleats now! So easy! And you can hang virtually anything this way!
STEP 8: Add Fruits and Veggies!
Once the boxes are all in place where you want them to be, you can easily remove them to fill them up, or just fill them while they’re hanging!
STEP 9: Celebrate! And Pray They Don’t Die 😉
The kids weren’t interested in helping when I needed a third hand to pass me screws when I was drilling, but they sure did want to help water the plants when they were done. LOL
I absolutely love how it turned out!
And they were pretty impressed. I think I scored some Cool Mom points. 😉
This project absolutely couldn’t have been as successful with a dirty, boring fence!
I’m thankful for the KILZ OverArmor™ for making my fence a beautiful backdrop for what has become my very first garden!
I’ll likely have to move the bottom row up so that it receives more direct sun.
But for now, this looks great!
So what do you think?? Do you have an old fence that could use a makeover with KILZ OverArmor™ Wood and Concrete Resurfacer so you can make a pretty hanging garden fence, too?
Leave a comment below and let me know what you think!
Let’s just be honest for a second: I suck at gardening.